How to Prune Big Leaf Hydrangeas for Vibrant Blooms Next Season

It’s late July or early August, and if you’re like me, you might be noticing that your hydrangeas are starting to look a bit tired and drab. Those once-vibrant blooms are now drooping, and the foliage isn’t exactly winning any beauty contests. Or maybe, they’ve outgrown their surroundings.

But before you get the urge to start deadheading or pruning, let’s hit pause for a moment and make sure we know exactly what kind of hydrangea we’re working with because pruning time depends on the type of hydrangea you have.

First Step: Identify

If you have a Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea) you’re in luck! These varieties bloom on old wood, meaning they grow their buds on last year's growth. That means you can safely prune them down to a healthy bud without risking next year’s blooms. By cutting back now, you’re giving those buds plenty of time to grow and develop into gorgeous flowers for next summer - but don’t miss your window of opportunity. Any later than the second week of August - don’t do it! You’ll be risking next year’s blooms. And, trust me, it’s not the end of the world. Spent blooms add visual interest in the winter and provide a nice snack for the birds.

There are two main types of bigleaf hydrangeas that include mophead and lacecap varieties. Identifying whether you have a bigleaf hydrangea is all about observing a few key features.

Mophead Hydrangea

First, take a look at the flower structure. mop head hydrangeas are known for their large, dense flower clusters that form a rounded ball shape. These clusters are packed with many small, tightly grouped flowers, creating a lush, full appearance. In contrast, Lacecap hydrangeas have a more open, airy flower structure. They feature a central cluster of tiny, fertile flowers surrounded by a ring of larger, showy florets, giving the blooms a delicate, lace-like appearance.

Lacecap Hydrangea

Next, examine the leaves. Both have large, dark green, elliptical, and serrated leaves that can grow up to 8 inches long and 6 inches wide. The leaves are arranged oppositely on the plant and have a waxy texture. The leaf margins are serrated, and the tips gradually taper to a sharp point. Bigleaf hydrangea leaves usually fall in the fall, but may remain on the plant in mild climates.

Lastly, consider the blooming period. While both types generally bloom on old wood, Lacecap hydrangeas may have a slightly more staggered blooming period compared to the more uniform flowering of Bigleaf hydrangeas.

Getting to Work: Hydrangea Pruning

I took my pruning shears and got to work. I made sure to trim down to a double leaf with an active bud, typically focusing on the third pair of leaves down the stem. I went around the plant, snipping away until I’d removed all the old blooms.

Prune to a healthy bud

It took me about 40 minutes to tackle two bushes—so roughly 20 minutes per bush. I could have probably sped things up, but I wanted to make sure I was making the cuts in the right places. Precision is key when it comes to pruning!

And here’s how they looked after the pruning session. They might not have flowers right now, but they look a lot neater and are already setting themselves up nicely for next year’s bloom.

Deadheaded Hydrangea

What You'll Need for The Best Results

For this task, I used just a few tools:

• A 5-gallon bucket (for collecting the pruned blooms and leaves)

• Felco pruning shears (for precise cutting)

• Work gloves (to protect my hands)

I’m already looking forward to seeing these bushes in full bloom again next year. Even though I’d love it if they could stay in bloom year-round, a little seasonal tidying up goes a long way.

Love,

Bedhead